Really interesting post. For alpine it’s a little different than cragging, but between that post and the ultra endurance guy that Shugart helped, I learned a decent amount. For weight purposes, I only really have two nalgene bottles of liquid for the entire day. Stuff freezing is also very possible, so putting crap into water (i.e. electrolyte powder) helps. Finibars cut up may be an ok addition to marathon gel since they shouldn’t freeze up too hard that I couldn’t eat them quickly, but weight per calorie might be sub par to gel.
After reading those posts I think I’ll replace my departure food with a finibar or two with Indigo-3G, have a plazma in the car toward the base of the mountain, slog for 3 hour approach, have a finibar when we’re putting crampons on and racking up, climb however many pitches having some finibar or energy gel at every other belay. As far as my two nalgenes I’m still torn. Maybe one surge and one electrolyte replacement, or maybe two plazma? Most of the day the goal is to burn fat for energy, but climbing 60+ degree steep snow for 1-2k feet and leading ice and mixed pitches burns more carbs than fat due to the elevated HR, so either supplement could have its benefits.
The climbs we are doing this season have super mellow descents (like 6+ miles but all completely walkable) so nutrition after topping out is pretty irrelevant. Likely we will crush large pizzas and drink too much coffee after getting back to the tiny little mountain town nearby. Last year our time was 12hrs car to car due to a gnarly storm that gave us some frostbite, but this year I would like to increase the difficulty and get it in 8 hours (i’ve been working a lot of endurance prior to, other than breaking my leg a few months back pushing a little too hard on a training climb).