Biotest

Climbing Marathon and Surge Question


#1

Hey everybody,

I’m challenging myself to climb every route at a local climbing area in as little time as possible. I can’t say for sure how long it will take but the upper estimate is eight hours.

I’ll be drinking SWF throughout the day. Exactly how much, I’m not sure. I’ve also got some Plazma on hand and was wondering what’s the best way to fuel myself for the day. (I will be eating solid food as well.) For sure I’ll use the Surge throughout the day as this is an endurance event but I was wondering if/when to incorporate Plazma for an extra edge. My guess is maybe having a serving of Plazma right before I start.

I’m 24, I weigh 150 pounds, and this is going to be a seriously hard challenge for me with as little breaks as possible. How much Surge is suggested, and should/how should I dose the Plazma?


Surge for Alpine Climbing
#2

[quote]shralpinist wrote:
For sure I’ll use the Surge throughout the day as this is an endurance event but I was wondering if/when to incorporate Plazma for an extra edge. My guess is maybe having a serving of Plazma right before I start.

I’m 24, I weigh 150 pounds, and this is going to be a seriously hard challenge for me with as little breaks as possible. How much Surge is suggested, and should/how should I dose the Plazma?[/quote]
I’d probably stick as close as possible to this plan that Tim Patterson designed for an ultra marathon runner:

It’s from a few years ago, and the formulas may have been tweaked a bit, but the approach is still solid. It recommends Plazma before and during the event, but SWF should definitely be a suitable substitute. If the climb is relatively sporadic, meaning it won’t be 8 hours of non-stop climbing, then you wouldn’t need the serving every half-hour. Hourly should be fine to keep things steady.

Let us know how the climb goes. When are you looking to do it?


#3

I have completed my first attempt at the fastest possible time. I clocked in at just under 7 hours. I’m certain I can get it down to under 6 especially since I have some logistical details hammered down (where to set up my ropes and anchors, where I can safely go ropeless, etc.)

It felt pretty good but I hit a huge wall at 6 hours. I had one dose of Plazma right as I started climbing and sipped 4 scoops of Surge throughout the day. I think I’m going to use two doses of Plazma (2nd dose 1 hour in) next time, and keep the 4 scoops of Surge. I notice Surge helps me hold on longer when I’m tired. I also need to eat more solid food throughout the day.


#4

[quote=“shralpinist, post:3, topic:5909, full:true”]
It felt pretty good but I hit a huge wall at 6 hours. I had one dose of Plazma right as I started climbing and sipped 4 scoops of Surge throughout the day. I think I’m going to use two doses of Plazma (2nd dose 1 hour in) next time, and keep the 4 scoops of Surge. I notice Surge helps me hold on longer when I’m tired. I also need to eat more solid food throughout the day.[/quote]
Ha, I think you’re allowed to hit a wall after 6 hours of climbing. Fair enough. Sounds like you’re onto a good plan though. Very cool to hear how it turned out. I think between the solid food and the second hit of Plazma a while in, you should be right on track.